French influence on Vietnamese cusine can be seen in the crispy baguettes and cured meats used in bánh mì, hearty beef served in bowls of phở, and creamy bánh flan, amongst other dishes.
But amidst all the delicious fusion of flavors and preparations, French cuisine that hasn’t been altered or adulterated is far more difficult to find, even in metropolitan Saigon. Two three-star Michelin chefs are aiming to change that with their new French gastronomy restaurant,
In addition to its location, the restaurant has attracted attention because of its founding chefs. Twins Jacques and Laurent Pourcel have received international acclaim and Michelin recognition for cuisine that the New York Times describes as “complex in ingredients, rich in flavor, but simple to understand.” Given France’s long, albeit troubled, history with Vietnam and the city’s current dearth of authentic French options, they decided Saigon was the ideal place to establish the second iteration of their famed Jardin Des Sens restaurant (the original is found in Montpellier, France). The flagship restaurant will alow the brothers to educate Vietnamese guests about French gastronomy’s unique cuisine and culinary arts.
Sons of a winemaker and mentored by some of their home country’s greatest chefs, the Pourcel’s brothers’ style is steeped in French tradition and in many ways exemplifies current trends of returning to time-honored preparation methods. While many associate French cuisine with heavy sauces and overwhelming richness, the southwestern part of the country where the brothers are from relies more on simplicity to spotlight the essence and freshness of the ingredients. Vietnam affords them new meats, fruits, vegetables and spices to focus on, but dishes are always made according to traditional French techniques.
While the chefs adhere to traditional cooking methods, being in Vietnam enables them to introduce ingredients from local markets and regional distributors. This flexibility is showcased in the king crab, an item not common in the French countryside nor conventional Vietnamese kitchens. The dish takes inspiration from the frigid waters the crustacean lives in, so a cold coconut snow accompanies the lemon-cooked meat alongside a slick champagne jelly and bloody mary sorbet. After admiring the exquisite arrangement on the plate, guests are reminded, “to get the best, make a mess,” and therefore mix all the elements together. Diner’s initial bewilderment at the dishes’ chilling effect on their tongues quickly gives way to surprise and delight as the unexpected flavors and textures combine for a layered and gracefully balanced taste.
Jardin Des Sens aims to surprise their guests in more ways than just the meals they offer. This goal helps inform the restaurant’s size and schedule. By offering a single lunch and dinner service for no more than 30 people each, the restaurant ensures each diner receives personal attention while also allowing them to slowly savor the atmosphere. It also allows for unexpected delights. For example, whenever a guest requests pepper they don’t receive a typical hand grinder; instead, a server carries to the table an 80cm-long grinder designed by the famed French race car company Peugeot, in playful homage to the firm’s origins in grinders. If a guest jokes, as often happens, “Don’t you have anything bigger?” the waiter returns with a 1.2-meter version of the tool.
Small moments like these make all the difference in providing memorable meals. This is why, when one of the Pourcel brothers is in town, which is about one week per month, he will unexpectedly appear at tables to hand-finish a dish and return for photos and small-talk. Rather than serve as figureheads, the brothers take an active role in designing and refining the menu to make sure their vision is accurately conveyed through each course. Later this year, they will bring this same attention to three new Saigon restaurants – Mama Sense, Terminal 2 and Café Francais.
Vietnam has a well-earned reputation for its cuisine that incorporates French ingredients and flavors. But a truly authentic French meal is hard to come by here. Jardin Des Sens, therefore, has a unique opportunity to educated Vietnamese guests about French gastronomy through culinary artistry and one-of-a-kind dining experiences.
Urban Traveler 